Much Better Than Sorrento

I am writing this, hurtling backwards towards Sicily in the compartment of an old style Italian train. Our seat mates, all from calabria, are having an animated discussion of the remembered pleasures of falling In Love. Outside our compartment of six, a seventh man, I will call him Mr. Stinky, is leaning in, eager to join the conversation. When able he is also eager to join our compartment. Each time someone detrains, he pops into the newly opened seat, eager to be one of the party. Luckily so far the compartment seats have been completely sold out, and as the train pulls out of the station they show up to displace him. But he is sure he is part of our changing train family, always welcome. Probably would be, but for the stench.

But I digress. We are hurtling towards Sicily, fresh from the nicest morning of our trip so far. Taking a bus in the dawn light, we were the only ones on a huge bus that made its way in hairpin turns up, through and down the mountains of the Amalfi coast. The coastal hairpinned road from the northernmost town of Sorrento, to the next, Positano, is washed out. So we went on the mountain hairpin road, instead. Was so beautiful, and also dramatic, as our mild bus driver turned manic when stuck behind a large truck, turning to us in italian exasperation to fume with both arms when he was not blowing the horn.

We expected after Sorrento, which is sort of suburban Carmel style over consumption, not to enjoy the rest of the Amalfi coast. But the town of Amalfi happily surprised us. It has castles, ruins, shiny mosaic fronted Greek style cathedrals up huge flighs of stairs, with a wedding no less. It has tasty food, endless small squares, and hidden passageways.

Hidden passageways---We were able to walk from amalfi, completely around the point to the next valley, the town of Atrani, completely shielded from the sea in twisty passages of stairways through the warren of houses that cover the point, with no signs, if you didn't know you could go through you'd neve have found it, because Atrani does not want to be found i guess; just like the signs to Bolinas! but luckily once you are in Atrani, they do want you to find your way back to the big city of Amalfi so they DO sign your way home.

Both towns have lovely walks, through lemon orchards. In Atrani, we were walking up the narrow roadway, past ladies hanging wash out above, when we noticed the most delicious aroma. What was that! Jasmine pikake? No! It was lemon blossoms! It was so sweet and cool.... It drifted down from the groves above. After that in both towns, we noticed the nice fragrance was everywhere. SO nice.

In both towns also we hiked and hiked, lots of stairs, trickling streams, lemon groves. And walked out along the piers where fishermen tie up right next to the yachts of rich hotties. Makes me hungry and sore just thinking of how much we walked, although just now my butt is on a soft cushion for the next 8 hours as the beaches of Calabria flash by. Also we spent a great 25minutes flashing by on a speedy ferry from amalfi down the coast to the not so very impressive city of Salerno. Missable.

Food... This morning in sorrento we enjoyed standup breakfast, cappucinos (mine with a little cocoa heart) with croisssants and chocolate; in Atrani we enjoyed another set of coffees splitting an omelette with fresh farm eggs and local cheese; in Amalfi we had fresh salad and bruschetta with tomato, basil and anchovies; in Salerno, before our train, I bought little savory tarts sort of like flat pop tarts, one with chips of Italian ham and cheese and one with green herbs and feta; on the train Craig promised a hot meal just like on the French trains of his memories but instead we got a nice bag of vanilla cream wafers. Remarkably good. I must be amazingly hungry from all this morning's hiking.